Brown chicken stock


A few days ago we had some chicken legs (thighs and drumsticks), but had decided to take the meat off the bones to stir fry – so we were left with the bones and various scraps plus the skin. I’m trying to be a bit more conscientious about not wasting food, so decided I should make something with these scraps. I found a recipe for brown chicken stock in delicious magazine and decided I’d do a variation on that. To be honest I didn’t follow the recipe that closely – it more just inspired me …

We’d be blanching some broccoli and green beans to freeze, so I reserved the water from that to use to make the stock.

I put the chicken scraps in a roasting pan and cooked them on 180-200C for about half an hour.

Chicken scraps

While that was happening, I chopped some carrot and onion, and softened that in some oil for 20 minutes or so.

Once the vegetables were soft and the chicken brown I added the chicken to the veg, and deglazed the roasting pan with some sherry and put that in as well. I then added the broccoli cooking water and a little more cold water (probably about 2 litres altogether, but that’s a bit of a guess), a bay leaf and a little bit of rosemary that I had going dry and then brought it all up to a simmer and left it to reduce for several hours – at least 3, possibly 4 hours.

Stock reducing

It reduced by about two thirds it’s original volume – it produced around 600ml stock after I’d strained it.

I strained the stock through a sieve and then through the sieve with a little bit of muslin in the bottom (which I’d rescued from a supermarket bought bouquet garni which I’d used to make soup previously.)

The final result was a cloudy brown stock that doesn’t look that great but definitely has the right flavour. I’ll be using it to make something later in the week …

Finished stock

Kiwi and grapefruit (gin) jam


We get a fruit and veg box delivered each week, and generally if there is an option that we don’t like or don’t use that much we can set a delivery preference to say we don’t want it. However, kiwi fruit is one of those things which I never take off the list of options because … well actually I’m not sure why – I suspect I feel that we *should* be eating it – but so often we end up putting soft kiwis in the compost bin.

So a couple of weeks ago I decided enough was enough – and I really should do something with the kiwis. One recipe I’ve used before is Jamie Oliver’s kiwi salsa (part of his fish taco recipe) which I recommend, but I was looking for something different – so I decided to try making kiwi jam.

I started with a recipe I found in the Guardian which is great because its so simple:

  • Kiwi fruits – as many as you want
  • 1 tbsp sugar per kiwi
  • 1 tsp lemon juice per kiwi

I used to be a real stickler for following recipes to the letter, but years of living with D and reading food writers like Nigel Slater, plus some confidence in my ability to cook, has meant I’m more ready to experiment and deviate from the recipe.

The recipe says to leave the skin on the kiwis, but I knew D wouldn’t like that, so I just scooped out the insides with a teaspoon instead. I’d mixed up the kiwi and sugar and was adding the lemon when I realised I was a little short on lemon – so I was wondering what I could add that was ‘citrusy’ and remembered a bottle of grapefruit gin I had in the cupboard (a Christmas present) – so I added a few splashes of that as well (it was total guess work – I was adding a bit more than I would have of lemon juice to try to get the flavour through – but still measured in teaspoons I’d say).

Grapefruit gin

Having mixed this all up, I put everything in a small pan (I only had 8 kiwis so I wasn’t making huge amounts) and cooked it until it went “jammy”. I thought I’d overdone it as it was quite thick and sticky even when hot – but I think it actually turned out pretty well.

I poured boiling water into a couple of jam jars, let them sit for a few minutes, then poured it out, and put the jam in. Making in small quantities meant I wasn’t really worried about the jars being completely sterile (which, to be honest, is the thing that I struggle with most when making jam!).

The end product was delicious – quite sweet, with the gooseberry qualities of the kiwi fruit coming through and the grapefruit gin just very faintly at the back of it.

I tried another batch this week but substituted the lemon juice with grapefruit juice (as we had a grapefruit in our delivery box) and left out the gin – the result was more “tart” than the original jam, and I missed the herbally/gin note that my first attempt had – so I think I’d definitely add the gin again next time – perhaps tweaking the amount of lemon.

If you haven’t tried kiwi jam I’d highly recommend – it’s really good!

Kiwi jam on homemade bread

Sour cream pancakes


We love to have American style pancakes as a weekend breakfast treat. Until recently my favourite recipe was one I found on (no longer operational) Google Knol by Scott Jenson – luckily the recipe is preserved in several places online, including this site called Tastebook.

Because we don’t always have buttermilk in the house I’d occasionally played around with alternatives, and had a bit of success mixing yoghurt and milk – but I found if I got the proportions wrong in this mix, the flavour was a bit off. Then one day I had some left over sour cream, and used that, mixed with milk, in place of buttermilk. The result was the tastiest and fluffiest pancakes I’ve made:

Wet ingredients

  • About 100ml sour cream mixed with 200ml milk. The amounts are quite rough here, because I tend to use whatever sour cream I’ve got, and top up with milk (and rarely note exact measurements). I try to be a bit conservative with the milk – you can always thin the batter with some more milk later.
  • 1 egg
  • 50g melted butter
  • 1-2 tsps vanilla extract

Dry ingredients

  • 125g strong white flour
  • 40g caster sugar
  • 1/2 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • 1/2 tsp salt

Mix the wets and drys separately, then mix them together and let them rest for few minutes for the raising agents to start working. The resulting batter should be a bit lumpy. How thick you make the batter is up to you – if you make it on the thicker side you’ll get thicker pancakes that will need to cook a little slower to cook all the way through in the pan.

Roasted Butternut Squash Lasagne


This is a recipe that we improvised at home a few weeks ago – but unfortunately we haven’t taken a picture of it either time. We tend to eat this over two nights, so I guess it would serve 4 at one sitting – although perhaps accompanied by some bread?

Pre-heat the oven to around 220C.

  1. Peel and dice a large butternut squash, and put it in a roasting tin. We dice into relatively large chunks – it’s up to you, but the smaller you dice it, I guess the shorter you’ll want to roast it
  2. Season with salt, pour some oil (we use a cheap rapeseed oil – basically anything that can cope with the high roasting temperature – which probably means not olive oil). You could put some woody herbs like thyme or rosemary in as well, although we haven’t
  3. Put the squash in the oven to roast – 30 minutes will do it for a relatively large dice, but basically until it is cooked through and soft. Once the squash is done you’ll want to turn the oven down slightly – to around 180C
  4. While the squash is roasting make a tomato sauce – we recommend making it with fresh tomatoes which keeps it lighter than the tinned. Basically chop an onion and fry gently to soften in plenty of olive oil (Damyanti says “lots of olive oil”), add some crushed garlic, some oregano. Blanch, skin and chop the tomatoes in the meantime, and then add them. Simmer it until it has reduced to a nice consistency – you don’t want too much liquid
  5. Make a bechamel/white sauce (sorry, not going to go into this here – but plenty of places you can find out how to do this)
  6. Now build the lasagne – first a layer of tomato sauce, then squash, then some fresh spinach leaves scattered over, then lasagne sheets (we use fresh and find you can just use it , but if you use dried you’ll want to put it in some boiling water first), repeat this pattern, and then top the final sheet of lasagne with the bechamel sauce.
  7. Put the whole thing in the oven for about 20-30 minutes – until the top has gone nicely brown

That’s it – it sounds complicated but to be honest it doesn’t feel like a big hassle once the squash is in the oven – it gives you time to do everything else. We really like it, and recommend it!

Malt Loaf


Making Malt Loaf

A few weeks ago, I got this craving for Malt Loaf, and thought it would be a good thing to bake. I didn’t have a recipe at home, so I asked for a recommendation online, and Anna (after suggesting I could just go and buy some Soreen), came up with the following:
75ml (2 1/2 fl oz) hand-hot water
200g (7oz) brown flour or 100g (3 1/2 oz) wholemeal flour and 100g (3 1/2 oz) strong white flour
2.5ml spoon 1/2 tsp) salt
2 x 15ml spoons (2 tbsp) malt extract
2 x 15ml spoon (2 tbsp) black treacle
25g (1oz) margarine
30g (1oz) dark soft brown sugar
100g (3 1/2 oz) sultanas
Honey or golden syrup to glaze

2 x 5ml spoons (2 tsp) conventional dried yeast + 5ml spoon (1 tsp) sugar
or 15g (1/2 oz) fresh yeast
or 1 x 5ml spoon (1 tsp) fast action easy blend yeast

  • Stir the dried yeast and sugar into the water and leave until frothy, or blend the fresh yeast with water, or mix the easy blend yeast with the flour.
  • Place the flour and salt in a bowl, add the sultanas.
  • Warm the malt, treacle, margarine and sugar until just melted and the sugar dissolved, and stir into the flour with the yeast liquid. (Note: if using instant yeast add to dry flour and warm the water with the malt mixture).
  • Mix to a soft dough.
  • Turn onto a floured surface and knead until no longer sticky (about four minutes), adding more flour if necessary.
  • Shape and place the malt loaf in a greased 500g (1lb) loaf tin. Cover the dough and leave to prove in a warm place until doubled in size – about one and a quarter hours.
  • Bake at 220°C, Gas Mark 7, for 30 minutes until browned and the malt loaf sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom.
  • Cool the Malt Loaf on a wire rack. Whilst the loaf is still hot brush the top with honey or syrup.

So Bryn and I set to making our first ever malt loaf. After mixing the dry and wet ingredients we weren’t left with a ‘soft dough’ but rather a pretty sloppy looking batter. Luckily Bryn was pretty good at adding liberal amounts of extra flour 🙂 I’d guess maybe as much as another 50g (strong white bread flour). It was still pretty sticky, but with a liberal dusting of flour on my hands I was able to knead it a bit, and get it into a loaf shape.

It didn’t really seem to rise much, but we put it in the oven, and hoped for the best. The result was a dense, but rich flavoured bread, with a crunchy crust when it was fresh out of the oven. We ate it while it was still warm, with butter, but it was even better the next day (with butter again!). Soreen it isn’t, but it is very nice.

Slices of Malt Loaf

Slices of Malt Loaf

Trio of curries


I felt like curry last Monday, with Owen going to be home late, I had an hour to myself to kill but hadn’t been shopping luckily we had lentils, potatoes and eggs so I made tarka dhal, egg curry and bombay potato curry.


Before making a curry it’s best to make up some masala – a mixture of chilies, garlic and ginger all finely chopped and mixed with a ratio of 2 chilies to 1 garlic clove and small knob of ginger.

Scrambled Egg Curry – this is one of my favourite my curries and only takes 10 mins to make

  • Sliced Onions
  • Eggs x 2
  • Masala
  • Turmeric (pinch)
  • Cumin powder (pinch)
  • Coriander powder (pinch)
  • Coriander Leaves

Fry the onions slowly, once they are translucent and browning add the chopped chilli, garlic and ginger and the dried spices. Fry for a minute or two while stirring, then break in 2 eggs and scramble until the eggs are cooked well. Once cooked stir in some fresh coriander leaves.

Bombay Potato – another of my favourites

  • Potato x 3
  • Oil – 1 tablespoon
  • Mustard seeds – pinch
  • Masala
  • Chili powder – pinch
  • Turmeric – 1/2 teaspoon
  • Cumin powder – 1/2 teaspoon
  • Coriander powder – 1/2 teaspoon
  • salt – pinch
  • Coriander leaves

Quater the potato and then finely slice, each piece about 1cm thick, its best to try and get all the slices to be the same size and thickness so they cook evenly, rinse in cold water.
Add the oil to a frying pan then the mustard seeds. Once they start popping add in the sliced potato and stir (be careful as the oil will spit). Add the masala, spices and salt and stir. Leave to cook on a low heat till the potatoes are soft, if they start to stick to the pan add a little more oil. When the potatoes are nearly cooked add some coriander leaves.

Tarka Dal – I use a recipe from ‘Easy Indian’ by Das Sreedharan. Serves 4-6. This a good curry to make as you just add all the ingredients to the pan and leave, its also a good curry to freeze.

  • Red lentils – 200g
  • Yellow split peas – 50g
  • Sliced Onions x 2
  • Diced tomatoes x 2
  • Garlic cloves chopped x 2
  • Green chili sliced x 2
  • Chili powder 1.2 tsp
  • Turmeric 1 tsp
  • To finish – 4 cloves of garlic sliced & 1/2 tsp of cumin seeds

Add all the ingredients to a big pan and then add about 2 pints of water and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and leave to simmer with lid on for about 20 mins or till the lentils begin to soften. I find the red lentils cook quicker than the yellow. Leave uncovered for 5 mins. If very watery then I tend to pour some of the liquid out as I prefer my dhal to be thick. Before serving, fry a little oil in a small frying pan and add some cumin seeds and the sliced garlic, once the garlic starts browning pour into the dhal.



This is another bread recipe from Dough by Richard Bertinet. It starts with his basic olive oil dough which is:

  • 500g Strong White flour
  • 20g Coarse Semolina
  • 10g Salt
  • 15g Yeast (fresh if possible)
  • 50g Extra virgin Olive oil
  • 320g water

Make up the dough and knead it well (it will be quite sticky at first, but should get firmer as you knead). Rest the dough for an hour in a covered bowl. Oil a baking sheet, and turn the rested dough out onto the sheet. Spread out the dough on the sheet by pushing it with your fingers (don’t roll it out or stretch it). Drizzle some olive oil over the top and spread it across the dough (easiest to do this just with your hands)

Cover the dough to rest for 45 minutes. I find that putting it in a plastic bag is the easiest thing, and doesn’t stick (the first time I made it, I used a tea towel, and ended up scraping half the dough off the towel). After it has rested use your finger tips to make dimples across the whole dough – just push your fingers into the dough. Then cover again and leave for a further 30 minutes.

Finally sprinkle some good quality sea salt (e.g Maldon Sea Salt) over the top (you want salt flakes, rather than granules), and bake in the over at 220 degrees C for 25-30 minutes. The original recipe adds rosemary at the same time as the salt, but we’ve been out of rosemary every time I’ve baked it so we haven’t tried it yet.

After it comes out of the oven, but while it is still warm, brush with more olive oil.

We absolutely love this bread – probably a bit too much. Delicious dipped in more olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

We’ve tried the same recipe as a pizza base – 500g flour made 3 medium sized bases when stretch out more thinly. They were still pretty thick, but good flavour.

Picture of a loaf of focaccia

Picture of a loaf of focaccia

Huevos rancheros


Huevos Rancheros

Huevos Rancheros

This was my favourite brunch choice at Giraffe in Richmond, a fried egg, refried beans on a tortilla with salsa. The veggie option in Giraffe included mushrooms instead of chorizo. Since we moved we have tried to recreate this dish at home.

  • tortilla
  • eggs
  • pinto beans
  • chilli
  • pimento peppers
  • tomatoe puree
  • cumin
  • avacado
  • onion
  • tomatoe
  • lime
  • corriander

Start by making the refried beans. Fry a finely chopped onion in some olive oil once softend add a pinch of dried chilli (smoked chilli could be a good alternative). Add some chopped pimento pepper (or jalepeno). Drain can of pinto beans and add to the mixture, use a fork to smash up some of the beans.Add a pinch of cumin and some tomatoe puree and leave to simmer

Meanwhile make the salsa, simply chop some onion, tomatoes and avacado, season, add olive oil and lime juice and finish with some fresh corriander

Heat up a couple of tortillas and fry some eggs.

Once the eggs are cooked you are ready to eat, spread the beans over the tortilla lay a fried egg on top with salsa at the side.

Summer Salmon with peas, beans, potatoes and samphire



This is based on a Jamie Oliver recipe (from Jamie’s Dinners), but with some slight variations.

  • Salmon fillets
  • Runner beans
  • Broad beans (we took the outer skin off because I’m fussy and think they are bitter)
  • Peas
  • (we stopped here, but any other seasonal green stuff you want)
  • Samphire (this was an impulse buy when we saw it in the fishmongers)
  • Lemons
  • Dill
  • New Potatoes – we used Anya, but any small variety – like Red fur apple or Rattes

Pre-heat the oven to 230 degrees.

Boil the potatoes for 10 or so minutes, and add any beans that might need a bit of pre-cooking – for us, just the runner beans – for a few more minutes. You don’t want them completely cooked, as it is all going into the oven for 15 minutes.

Descale the salmon (just scrape the scales off with a knife), cut into portion sized bits, and cut two or three slits in the skin. Roughly chop the dill, and push into the slits.

Drain the potatoes and other veg and put into a baking tray with all the other veg and samphire. Season with salt and pepper (if you are using samphire you won’t need much salt as it is quite salty), add lemon zest and lemon juice (we used 2 lemons for 6 people) and mix together. Lay the salmon portions on top, and drizzle with oil. Put the tray in the oven for about 15 minutes – basically until the salmon is cooked.

And that’s it – incredibly easy, and tastest great, especially eaten outside with a glass of wine, in the company of family and friends on a beautiful summer’s day.

Rye Bread


Rye Bread

Rye Bread

Admittedly, it doesn’t look very impressive – but this was the product of many hours of dedicated labour – and it tastes – well, like Rye Bread – so job done.

Two books have both enthused me about making bread over the last year. One I’ve already mentioned on this blog – Dough by Richard Bertinet. The other, and the one which this recipe comes from, is The Handmade Loaf by Dan Leppard. The recipes in The Handmade Loaf were collected by Dan from around Europe.
Dan Leppard’s approach to bread making is not for the impatient or the short of time. Many of them rely on a natural leaven – that is a ferment made from naturally occuring yeast. Initially the leaven takes several days to get going, but once you have a mixture that is fermenting you can keep it going by ‘feeding it’ – that is topping it up with flour and water.
Since this Rye Bread uses the natural leaven – this is where I should start. The instructions (and pictures) in the book are so good it seems both pointless, and unfair to the author, to repeat them here, but I’ll summarise quickly:
Mix 50g water, 2 tsp rye flour, 2 tsp strong white flour, 2 tsp currants or raisins, 2 tsp live low-fat yoghurt in a (atleast) 500ml jar, and leave at room temperature for 24 hours
Add a further 50g water, 2 tsp rye flour and 2 tsp strong white flour, stir well, and leave for 24 hours
Add 100g water, 4 tsp rye flour, 4 tsp strong white flour, stir in, and leave for 24 hours
Remove 3/4 of the mixture, add 100g water and stir well. Strain out the raisins/currents. Add 125g strong white flour and stir well – the leave for 24 hours
Add 100g water, stir well, add 125g strong white flour, stir well, leave for 24 hours
As you can see – this has already taken you 5 days – and you haven’t even started on the bread yet!
You should have a leaven that is now fermenting. To keep this going, every 24 hours you need to use, or otherwise dispose of, 3/4 of the leaven and top up with 100g water and 125g strong white flour (or in these proportions)
However, for the Rye Bread I needed a Rye Leaven instead of the white leaven that is described here. To make a Rye leaven you simply take the leave above and start feeding it with Rye flour and water rather than strong white flour and water. However with Rye flour you need a bit more water – I ended up using 125g Rye and 125g water for each refresh. I repeated this over a few days, refreshing roughly every 48 hours discarding 3/4 of the mixture and adding these proportions of water and rye flour – I think I refreshed like this 3 or 4 times.
With the Rye Leaven ready, you can start on the bread:
Boil water and measure out 240g – then let it cool to 90 degrees, and then whisk in 60g of rye flour – I have to admit I didn’t measure the temperature, I just boiled the water, poured out 240g into a bowl, and then whisked in the flour. The recipe suggests that adding the flour to water at different temperatures creates different textures to the final loaf.
Leave this mixture for at least an hour (I left it for just 1 hour), up to 24 hours
Now add 200g rye leaven to 50g water – and whisk in all but 1-2 tbsp of the rye and water mixture you made earlier (you use this little bit you have saved to brush the loaf later)
Add in 300g rye flour, 1 tsp salt and mix well
You’ll have a very wet dough
The recipe says to knead this ‘gently’ on an oiled surface – I have to say I found this very difficult. The dough was extremely wet, and despite the oil stuck to the surface quite quickly. From the description in the recipe it is not at all clear if you knead for just a few minutes, or until the dough firms up a bit and becomes easier to handle.
I was a bit less ‘gentle’ with the dough to try to get it to firm up, but in the end floured my hands liberally (although trying not to put more flour into the mixture, since in general the recipes Dan Lepard gives do result in quite wet doughs – and this is deliberate not a mistake), and shaped into a loaf.
Once you have a loaf, wrap in a (very very) well floured cloth, and leave to rise for 5 hours.
The recipe suggests the loaf will double in size – mine didn’t come close to this. Although you could tell that the dough had relaxed somewhat, it was hard to see if it had actually increased in size at all after 5 hours – maybe just a very little.
While the loaf is rising, pre-heat the over to 210 degrees. Don’t do what I did and accidentally switch the oven off, rather than switching it on 🙂
Turn the loaf onto a floured tray, and brush the top of the loaf with the leaven/flour/water mix from earlier, spray the loaf with water and bake in the over for 50 minutes, spraying again after 5 minutes.
The resulting loaf will be dense (I thought I’d baked a brick when my came out) – but will have that very distinct, and delicious, rye bread flavour. The bread goes well with a good hard cheese (something strong like Lincolnshire Poacher), smoked salmon, or just with some nice creamy butter. It may take 6 or so days to make, but it is worth it.